Fashion Week Fall 2010: Milan Recap

Kerry Pieri

No. 21 (above)
Alessandro Dell’Acqua reclaims his place in the Milan fashion hierarchy after losing the rights to his name and spending Spring ’09 on the sidelines. The seasoned designer’s first showing of No.21, named for his lucky number, looks to be off to an auspicious start. Dell’Acqua maintained his predilection for decadent detail, but this time around melded it with a sporty, daywear vibe. Signature lingerie details were found on understated lace skirts and tops, paired with easy button downs and pea coats. A leopard print pony hair coat was a star, as was a feather-accented cocktail dress.

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An edgy, young Scottish designer, who makes even wallflowers want to get dressed up for a night out, takes his second turn at reimagining vintage Versace. Sounds like a recipe for success. And it was at season two of the relaunched Versus collection, Versace’s very hip little sister– designed by Christopher Kane. Bruce Weber images from Gianni Versace’s heyday adorned tees paired with colorful skirts meant to call cupcakes to mind. Black leather and lace up booties toughened up the playful and decidedly youthful collection.

Bottega Veneta
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Clothes for the stylish, high-powered (or at least those with a desire to appear high-powered) woman are what Tomas Maier sent down the runway for Fall ’10. Black leather-clad ladies started the show that soon led into a parade of sleek suits, some cozy and cool coats, and finally some fitted shifts and flowing gowns. Color ran the gamut from dominatrix black to shades of pink, emerald green, and cherry red. But the real story was in the clever mix of materials that created a cool juxtaposition of drape and structure.

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Featuring models more recognized for their Victoria’s Secret wings than their runway cred (think Miranda Kerr, Doutzen Kroes, and Lara Stone), it would be easy to say that putting the shocking sight of actual breasts on the catwalk is just a publicity stunt. But curves were the word for Miuccia Prada this season, and chances are that the intellectual designer simply wanted to dress real women, with just a touch of humor. With a revisit to the silhouettes and signatures that made Prada the go-to for just about everyone in the 90s, the collection was also about the Prada lover’s ultimate wish list. Tweedy suits, nubby socks paired with pointed shoes, geographic fabrics worked into 60s-inspired skirts, and belted sweaters were just some of the best-of Prada classics made modern.

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Among the many minimalists who have punctuated seasons past with a stark pallette of black, white, and grey, there will always be room for the neo-70s bohemian. Cue Peter Dundas, who knows when to add some color, a touch of fringe, and maybe a feather bomber, for the girl who prefers her clothes with a healthy dose of personality. Open backs, plunging necklines, crushed velvets, and fitted maxi dresses rounded out the glam collection.

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