If there’s one thing we’ve learned about Vetements, it’s never to underestimate its power to woo the fashion crowd. Even with $1,200 hoodies and $1.500 blue jeans, the breakout design collective has managed to become something akin to the official clothing supplier of street-style stars this Fashion Month.
On Thursday night, the label, headed up by Georgian-born designer Demna Gvasalia, presented its fifth-ever collection (despite its current name recognition, it is, in fact, very new) in the American Cathedral of the Holy Trinity in Paris, and delivered on past seasons’ promises of haute hoodies—this time with antisocial sentiments like “You Fuck’n Asshole,” “Are We Having Fun Yet,” and “May the Bridges I Burn Light the Way” (a quote taken, gloriously, from “Beverly Hills, 90210″’s Dylan McKay)—Margiela-esque tailoring, and teenage dirtbag motifs like camouflage, wallet chains, and extra-long sleeves.
Ever gender-bending, the label showed crotch-skimming polished leather wader boots for men and women—a choice that recalled Prada’s fall 2009 collection, except for the addition of Ed Hardy–style tattoo prints. On the less practical end of the spectrum were the plaid and Western shirts with linebacker shoulders, and jackets cut so narrow the wearer looked hunched—but we have no doubt the traffic-cone-orange-lined MA-1 bomber will be ubiquitous among the label’s fans come fall.
Of course, there’s one other reason all eyes were on Vetements this week: Gvasalia was named Alexander Wang’s successor at Balenciaga, where he’s been tasked with breathing new life and buzz into the storied fashion house. His first collection is set to debut Sunday morning, so we’ll be watching this space, but in the meantime scroll down for a preview of what street style stars will be snapping up—for the price of a few months rent: