When it comes to her eponymous label Thuy, designer Thuy Diep is going back to basics. Perched on a couch in the sprawling SoHo loft that also doubles as her work space, she explains that this is the central theme of her fall collection. In addition to the company recently rebranding itself, it’s also sporting a new logo, which is part of the evolution that Diep calls a “fresh, clean slate.”
“Coming into fall, it was going back to my original idea of what Thuy was about, which is clean lines, tailoring, and sophisticated, but chic at the same time,” Diep said. “It’s interesting because after going in other directions, this fall was coming back and really thinking hard about what my clothes were about, what I want to do, and how I want to move forward.”
Diep credits the influence of her custom-tailor parents as instrumental in this fifth collection, which consists of 32 looks. “I played more with shape and form, and I’m pushing more of the tailoring side of the collection. My parents were tailors and so it just seemed that it was somewhat second nature to me,” Thuy said. “With each collection, I see it more and more, and I’m just really honing in on that side as a designer. I have also been playing with more colors and asymmetry, and even a little bit of deconstruction.”
Although it was refreshing to see pops of royal blues and yellows, as well as a watercolor print comprised of peacock green and aqua, it’s outerwear where Diep continually excels in her fall collection. With pieces that include a textured black and white eyelet vest that doubles as a coat and the “Feathertail Jacket,” a belted vest that mimics the shape of a bird’s feather, it’s clear that the designer has acquired an eye for creating standout toppers that can carry any woman stylishly through the cold winter months.
The Vietnam-born designer immigrated to the United States in 1979 with her family, and because of her parents’ profession, sewing and design were instilled in her from a very young age. Describing herself as a “precocious six-year-old” upon arriving stateside, Diep grew up in a household where fabric was always lying around and playing dress-up with her four sisters was the norm. The siblings also regularly put on fashion shows and constructed clothing both for themselves and for their dolls.
Her education in fashion design continued after Diep attended and graduated from New York’s Parsons School of Design in 2005. Immediately thereafter, the designer worked with the pattern making atelier that supplied and produced fabrics for fashion houses such as Carolina Herrera and Peter Som, followed by a stint at United Bamboo. Fast forward two years to the creation of Diep’s ready-to-wear collection, which debuted during New York Fashion Week in February 2007.
As her label approaches the three-year mark, Diep has a definitive answer when asked who the woman she designs for is. “She’s vibrant, self-made, and educated. She is a lot like me,” Diep said, “She’s still evolving, growing, reaching a goal, and striving towards a point in her professional and personal life. She traverses from uptown to downtown, she’s a very fluid woman.”