Interview with a Vampire
The past year’s cultural obsession with vampires will hold out well into 2010– if designers like Gareth Pugh, Alex Wang, and Joseph Altuzarra have anything to say about it. But the blood sucking motif seen on this season’s runways wasnt quite as innocent as the one played out onscreen by the likes of R.Pats and Kristen Stewart– not that were complaining. These looks illustrate one gothic villain we wouldnt mind offering our necks, or our credit cards to. Head-to-toe black leather, capes, aggressive Dracula-esque collars, and models made to look as if they were emerging from their graves, set a dark, yet highly covetable tone for fall.
(1) Ann Demeulemeester (2) Haider Ackermann (3) Paris 68 (4) Alexander Wang (5) Altuzarra (6) Gareth Pugh
In a sense, the majority of falls biggest trends captured the essence of a strong, confident woman. One way this translated was through the plethora of menswear-inspired work wear that graced the runways. Collections like Chloe and No.21 showcased suits that you just might confuse with your boyfriend’s side of the closet (save for the standout pink blouse perhaps), while designers like Christrophe Decarnin gave Balmains power woman added feminine flair with head-to-toe gold brocade. Either way, women should have no trouble suiting up in style for the corporate world come fall.
(1) No.21 (2) Dries Van Noten (3) Chloe (4) Calvin Klein (5) Bottega Veneta (6) Balmain
(Not So) CluelessJuxtaposed against runways full of femme fatale ferocity, was a lineup of leggy schoolgirls that provided a much-needed dose of innocence to the season. With sweet looks seen at Brian Reyes and Cynthia Steffe bringing a Freshman-year Jenny Humphrey to mind (pre-rebel transformation, of course), one thing was clear– knee high socks and swishy pleated skirts are a surefire choice for fall. Personally, well be toughening up the look la Proenza style.
(1) Brian Reyes (2) Cynthia Steffe (3) DKNY (4) Peter Jensen (5) Tommy Hilfiger (6) Proenza Schouler
Gypsy RoseStaying warm in wintry weather, while remaining sartorially savvy, is no simple feat. Come fall 2010, however, it seems that bundling up in mismatched, messy layers will be the ideal way to battle frigid temperatures. Fashion houses including Missoni, Rag & Bone, and Anna Sui, artfully imagined a wandering nomad as the ideal model for a winter wardrobe. Think of her traveling across the world experiencing various cultures and tossing on whatever layers she’s found along the way– whether it be chunky asymmetrical knits, multicolored fur coats, richly-colored prints, or all of it combined.
(1) Anna Sui (2) Chloe (3) Jean Paul Gaultier (4) Missoni (5) Rag & Bone (6) Roberto Cavalli
In the BedroomDesigners took inspiration from garments normally reserved for the bedroom and transformed them into ostensibly wearable ensembles– for those whove got the body to pull it off. Plenty of lace and sheer detailing abounded, with designers like Emilio Pucci, Julien MacDonald, and Antonio Berardi crafting sensual black lace dresses, while Marc Jacobs and John Galliano for Dior turned nighties into daywear. Perhaps the most wearable look of the pack was seen on Dolce & Gabbanas runway– where a black lace slip peeking out from underneath a black blazer would make for one hot date outfit– although something tells us this ensemble isnt quite suitable for the office.
(1) Dolce & Gabbana (2) Julien MacDonald (3) Marc Jacobs (4) Emilio Pucci (5) Christian Dior (6) Antonio Berardi
Future PerfectBetween the geometric detailing at Herv Lger, the astronaut-esque ensembles at Balenciaga, and the structural silhouettes at Louise Goldin– there was an otherwordly presence on the runways that provided a surprisingly wearable futuristic feel. Newcomer Pedro Loureno presented several leather dresses, with high necks and fin-like ruffled skirts, that gave models an alien-like appearance. With the fashion set already singing young Pedro’s praises, its a look that will surely see life beyond the runway.
(1) Rick Owens (2) Herv Lger (3) Louise Goldin (4) Balenciaga (5) Versace (6) Pedro Loureno
On the Western Front
It wasnt just American designers who played with the cowgirl fantasy for fall. Every major fashion-obsessed city showed some interpretation of the trend– whether it was the cowboy hats accessorizing Moschinos entire collection, or the urban cowgirl that strutted down Derek Lams runway in various combinations of black leather and fringe. Other details reminiscent of the wild west were seen at Chloe and Christopher Kane in the way of starched collars and floral embroidery.
(1) Moschino (2) Zac Posen (3) Diesel (4) Derek Lam (5) Christopher Kane (6) Chloe
Rocker-inspired looks are nothing new to the runway– but this season’s interpretation strayed from the disheveled drugged-up star of seasons’ past and focused on a toughened-up luxe lady who loves her badass side just as much as her bling. Balmain was the poster-child for the look this season, where Decarnin updated his signature bold shouldered mini dresses with opulent gold brocade detailing. Roberto Cavalli translated a similarly gilded look onto a lavish pair of pants. On Naeem Khan’s runway, the Indian designer (and Michelle Obama favorite) paired an embellished gown with a black biker vest, topped off with the model’s mohawk. The trend proved that you don’t have to give up an appreciation for the better things in life in order to showcase your edgier side.
(1) Emilio Pucci (2) Roberto Cavalli (3) Naeem Khan (4) Andrew Gn (5) Balmain (6) Isabel Marant