Diesel Black Gold: Our Pre-Show Chat With Sophia Kokosalaki


DesignerSophia Kokosalaki has been heading up Diesel Black Gold since 2009 when she was brought in to overhaul the high-end comtemporary label. After a few short seasons, the London-based talent has created a distinctive aesthetic for the urban contemporary brand, which shows at Pier 94 during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. In this StyleCaster exclusive, we ask the designer about showing in New York, utility dressing and her inspiration for the Spring 2012 Diesel Black Gold collection.

When did you start showing Diesel Black Gold in New York?

Actually this is the 4th Diesel Black Gold show in NY! We started in 2009 with the FW’10 collection. In the past year we have introduced a full fledged shoes and bags collection, have just presented in June the first pre-collection for the line and we are opening the first ever Diesel Black Gold free standing store in a couple of months in New York on Greene St.

What were you inspired by when designing the spring 2012 collection?

I just lookedaround me. I like observing young people, what they like to wear at the moment, what they would be possibly keen to wear in the coming months, always trying to evaluate the mood. From this starting point I come up with a creative concept that would be fit for a catwalk presentation and I employ my design skills to lift it a bit from plain street fashion and make it more visual.

What’s the one exciting new thing that you’re doing this season that you can share with us?

We are working with the principle of utility dressing based on an interplay of the classic and the technological. At the same time we are working on making it really photogenic, beautifully constructed…and sexy too.

You’re based in London. How does showing in New York affect the collection?

I am based in London, but I work with an international team of people and I am travelling a lot for my work. Diesel Black Gold is an urban contemporary line with a cosmopolitan appeal. New York embodies all these values and it is very much about street, contemporary fashion and youth culture so it effortlessly fits the bill.

The show is at Pier 94 again this season. What do you like in particular about the venue?

It is raw and industrial and it is a very adaptable vast space.

What’s the one thing that you’re looking forward to once the show’s over?

A good and long sleep, sometimes headache pills too!