Many of us are pretty one-sided with our eye makeup. While we may religiously wear mascara and liner on our top lids, bottom lids can feel a bit more tricky. It’s easy to make that bottom line appear too harsh or overdone, or worse, end up with raccoon eyes. With the right technique though, a great line on our bottom lids can complete our beautiful eye look – or, you can really switch things up and opt for liner on just the bottom lash line.
Prep the Area:
Always start with your foundation or concealer in place. All types of eye makeup will go on easier and stay put when it has something to cling to, says Lisa Gibson, a makeup artist.
Avoid Being Too Harsh:
Use any eyeshadow in the same color family as the rest of your eye makeup but ensure it’s lighter then your upper eyeliner, says Gibson. Black eyeliner on upper and lower lids closes the eyes and looks too harsh, she says. “Lower lash liner should always be softer than upper eyeliner. You never want your eyes to look as if you’ve circled them using a ballpoint pen!”
Line With Precision:
Using a slant tip brush, dip brush into eyeshadow, tap off excess and gently apply in a pressing motion from outer edge of eye inward 3/4 of the way in, says Gibson. Be sure to lighten your touch about halfway in during application so the line blends and there are no start and stop lines.
Using the same slant tip brush, dampen the brush with water or your favorite makeup setting spray and repeat. Gibson says a damp brush will make the color stand out a bit stronger and give you more control. Blot dampened brush on a towel or tissue before applying to guard against brush being too wet or causing a harsher line. Blend the lower lash line out well, remembering to blend the line out more towards the inner eye corner for a subtle, eye-opening effect. Darker looks require a more dramatic stroke on the outer edge, transitioning seamlessly to a softer look towards the tear duct.
Be Armed With T0ols:
A slant tip brush is best to use for the lower lash line, says Gibson. “I find you don’t have to spend a lot on pro makeup brushes. I use brushes I find at art stores. Have a look at your local art store for great quality brushes for under $10!” she says.
They can be used to deposit more color and blended out using a slant tip brush or even a cotton bud, says Gibson. Blending for the lower lash line is key. “You want a smudged look, never stark like the upper eyelid liner!” says Gibson. Waterline application is best for women with very large eyes or it runs the risk of making the eye look smaller. A good option for this area is a nude pencil or eye brightener pencil in a blue or white tone. This makes eyes look larger and instantly refreshes tired eyes!
Warming the eye pencil on the back of your hand helps the pencil to deposit color without “skipping” along the skin, says Gibson. Use a freshly sharpened pencil but run it across the back of your hand to both warm for easy application and to dull the tip a bit. “Too fine of a point can lead to that dreaded ‘Bic pen’ eyeliner look I see on too many women. Not a look you want to aspire to!” she says.
Blending the lower lash line is key for a gorgeous, eye opening effect; you want to aim for a blurred look, says Gibson. Be sure and apply your lower lash line eyeliner directly at your lash roots. Too low (under the lash roots) will make eyes look like they are sagging. Eyes should always have an up and out effect. Using the slant brush, or even a pointed cotton bud, blend from the outer corner inward. When using a slant tip brush you can angle the brush so the longer end of the bristles is actually helping create your line. Place the brush with the longer bristles on the outer edge of the eye, this will help create the upward look, close to the lash roots that you want.
Experiment with Gel Liner:
Gel liners are also an option, but require more blending and a softer application, says Gibson. Again, apply with a slant tip brush using a soft touch. Always use a shade lighter than your upper eyeliner, with any eyeliner product you choose. Angling the lower lash liner a bit downwards, right near the tear duct is another way to make eyes appear wide open and youthful. Its a great application technique for a night out or a holiday party, says Gibson.
Simply finish your liner application by angling the slant tip brush down right at the tear duct. A damp brush is best for this look whether using eyeshadow, gel liner or eye pencil. The damp brush helps to blend and shape your line in a subtle yet beautiful way!