NYFW SS 2012: VPL Goes Sleek While Erin Fetherston Does Chic

Amanda Elser

We have seen a lot of different looks already this fashion week, but so far our two favorites are on opposite ends of the spectrum. VPL went for a dewy, sleek, just-out-of-the-shower look, while Erin Fetherston’s presentation had 60s-inspired voluminous hair, bright lips and dark eyes. One look was sun kissed and au naturale, while the other was sultry and feminine — but both were equally beautiful.

Butter London’s Creative Director Nonie Creme said the VPL show was all about that beautiful naked moment. “We decided that despite all the great color pops that you will see running through the show today, the story is actually about nudity and nakedness itself,” Creme explained. “There are a lot of lingerie, nude moments — but not in a crass way, in a very VPL way.”

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This concept of purity dominated throughout the look, with a simply bronzed face, wet, slicked back hair, and the nude, naturally rounded nails.

Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni used the Cle de Peau Beaute2012 spring collection to achieve the healthy, naturally structured face. “It’s all about sculpting in a subtle way, not in a hard way. Nice, big, bushy eyebrows, sort of following their own natural shape, just making them a little bit bigger and kind of filling them in so they become the feature of the face. The feature of the face is the eyebrow and the slightly shiny skin,” Pieroni explained.

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But how do you achieve that shiny skin without looking greasy?

“A brush, good moisturizer, and doing it fast. If you [apply foundation] too slowly, you end up with loads. Also, don’t do it too close to the mirror. It’s best to do it far away, because most people don’t see what you see,” she said.

As for the hair, Bob Recine for PHYTO said they wanted a look that would show off the face.”We really wanted a kind of sculpted, wet look,” he explained.

Recine used PHYTO Intense Volume Mousse to completely saturate the hair. He said it doesn’t matter if your hair is washed or dry for this look. After sectioning off the hair and applying huge dollops of mousse, Recine then sprayed hairspray onto a comb and brushed it through the hair to give it a final “sleeker” and more sculpted look.

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“There’s so much in the collection, that we wanted to have something that would kind of show off the skin — and what better time than after a shower, when skin is really dewy and hair is wet?” he explained.

While we love the avant garde appeal of VPL’s look and envy the model’s luminous faces, there is still a big part of us that yearns for a look we could wear at home, without looking like we forgot to blow-dry our hair.

Which is why we were mildly obsessed with the hair from Erin Fetherston’s presentation, inspired by the 60s. Esther Langham for Alterna styled old classics with a modern twist.

“The clothes are all very graphic, so Erin wants to keep the hair soft and easy and light. All the styles you see have height at the crown, braided top knots at the crown. The French twist has height at the crown, the ponytails — the texture’s all done using fingers. It’s not harsh, it’s easy,” Langham said.

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But how to achieve such height in the twist and have it still look so soft?

“The products we’ve used have played a very important role. We’ve used the Alterna Bamboo Root Blast to really help create the lift and the texture that we needed. The Whipped Cream Mousse holds, but still gives a nice soft texture throughout the ends,” she explained.

What we liked, maybe even more than the hair, was the smoky-eye.

MAC Cosmetics makeup artist Caitlin Callahan explained how they achieved the simple look.

“James Kaliardos designed the makeup, a very 60s theme, but making it modern,” Callahan said. “How we’ve done that is we’ve kind of customized an eyelash, cutting down the ends so the eyelash is longest in the center. So when we curl the lashes and put those fake ones on, load it up with mascara, do a round black eye — you really, really get a circle. So it’s certainly not anything exotic or draggy or anything like that, it’s a very round eye.”

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What is so great about this look is that it isn’t a tri-color smoky eye. “It’s way more modern than that, it’s just one all the way around. Lots of mascara, and a bright lip. We also have a tiny bit of silver on the inside corner [of the eyes]. We call it the ballerina,” Callahan said. All you need is one color liner to achieve this dramatic look.

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