NYFW SS 2012: Naeem Khan’s Spanish Influence & Hematite Nail

Rachel Adler

To end our NYFW blur/spree/haze or whatever you want to call it, we headed to Naeem Khan last night to see some red carpet gowns (maybe it was our way of prepping for the Emmys red carpet). Whatever the case, we were beyond excited to find all of our favorite people backstage: colorist Marie Robinson, James Boehmer of NARS and Wanda Ruiz of CND.

Marie (an absolute goddess of hair color) wanted to showcase Naeem Khan’s inspiration for his collection — Spanish cinema and Ava Gardner — in the model’s hair color. She noted that she predicts many people will return to a solid, healthy color for Spring (as I stood there with cotton candy colors in my hair) and gave five of the girls new “cool warm colors.” She chose dark chestnut browns and golden caramel colors to give them that “Ava Gardner feel, using Clairol Perfect 10 of course.

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As for the hair style itself, Ryan Cotton led the team to develop a style from the inspiration. He wanted to create a style that “when you see it going down the runway, it looks like short hair, but the average person can do it.” So, Cotton chose a slicked back chignon that was simply divided into ponytails and twisted onto the head and pinned into place. To get the sheen, Cotton applied oil right before the girls stepped onto the runway.

James Boehmer of NARS led the makeup team, choosing to create contrast between the eyes and the lip, with a silver metallic eye and a peachy, glossy lip. Boehmer noted that you shouldn’t be afraid to mix warm and cool tones together, saying that mixing those tones makes your makeup look less monochromatic.

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One of our favorite parts of the show of course were the nails, with Wanda Ruiz leading the CND team. They created a “Hematite” nail for the show, with an almond shape nail (something we haven’t seen a lot of for Spring, but has definitely been in for Fall), using two coats of Asphalt for the look.