Marchesa was the last stop on my New York Fashion Week grand tour and I have to say, it was a great way to cap off the week. Entering the Plaza backstage the two tiered prep area was surrounded with Marchesa gowns from their Fall 2012 collection and if the clothes weren’t enough to take your breath away than the makeup looks definitely were. Supporting the grandeur of the Marchesa collection, the models backstage stood out indefinitely to the other looks we have seen this week. Manicurist Deborah Lippmann said the collection was inspired by a painting and the show was meant to be very angelic with fiery gold and silver accents. “There’s gonna be your not-so-angelic girl, your fiery girl, and then on the majority of the girl we’re doing a dual-color so it’s Baby Love, which is our best selling sheer pink, and then Stairway to Heaven and we’re doing two coats so it’s sort of mother of pearl meets fairy dust,” Lippmann explained.
As for the makeup,Talia Shobrook, key makeup artist for Laura Mercier, really wanted to play up the angelic inspiration. “The thing that I wanted to convey the most was kind of like unharmed, unpolluted, angelic thing is like glossy, almost marble-like statuesque skin texture,” said Shobrook. First she applied theRadiance primer mixed with the Hydrating primer to prep the skin, then she applied a silk cream foundation in a cross formation along her forehead,out to the cheek, the nose, the cupid bow, then the chin. She explained that their was a lot of gold in the collection and she wanted to bring that in without overpowering the look. She mixed Gilded Gold (a new product) with water to create a metallic liquid liner. She applied the liquid liner all around the eye and then put on center lashes to accentuate the roundness and give it that angelic look.
Shobrook also decided to paint socks onto some of the models to give it a “painterly statuesque feel.”
To really accentuate the clothes and elongate the neck, hairstylist Renato Campora created a braided updo for the runway as a way to reflect the vision of angelic romance.
“The inspiration is romantic, fragile, and natural,” explained Campora, “The reason that we did those braids was to help the shape of the clothing. The collection is beautiful the fabric is beautiful but we wanted to free the neck. We start at the top and did a cornrow all the way to the end. We left a little bit of hair in the front to keep the fragility and romantic feeling then we combined the ends together to create a very tight shape. We used Fekkai Coiff Bouffant Lifting & Texturizing Spray to hold it all together.