Lip liner is a makeup bag staple, yet it seems a good amount of us still struggle with how to properly use it, specifically when we want to plump it up. So much so, that celebrity makeup artists Ash Holm and Mary Phillips recently took time away from A-list clientele like Ariana Grande and Kendall Jenner to share lippie-specific tips that are actually useful.
Speaking with Cosmopolitan, both Holm and Phillips noted the over-lined look as a trend that dates back to the 1920s, but when done incorrectly, looks like it actually time-traveled from that era…and that’s just not cute. So, what’s the key to making your kissers look plumper, sans fillers? First, stick with a neutral tone that has the same undertones as your skin so the contrast between the color and your outer lip area doesn’t look so stark.
Holm also says that filling in the corners of your lips first instead of tracing your lips delivers a more natural-looking result, since “this not only contours them, but also softens the line making the hack a little less noticeable.” But what’s really key here is finding a nice balance. You shouldn’t be directly on your lip line, but you also shouldn’t venture too far.
The article notes, “Both Ash and Mary agree that following your natural shape (and not going too far outside the natural border) will look the most natural, while also effectively enhancing your pout. Mary says for her clients whose faces can carry a lot more makeup, she’ll shade over the cupids bow rather than along it, but adds that this can be tricky to pull off. If it looks silly, you’ve probably pushed it a bit too far.”
Lastly, you should be blending your lip color the same way you would foundation or a contour. This softens the outside perimeter of the lip, and sort of melts the liner into the skin. Dig into the entire piece for more lip liner advice; it could make or break your next makeup sesh.