Yves Saint Laurent‘s Resort Collection by Stefano Pilati is everything elegant and charming and fit for the South of France you could ever want in a resort collection from nautical inspirations, to poppy prints, little crop tops and a slight shock of red leather to bring you back to fashion reality.
All of that literalness was no accident, the designer tells WWD that he was inspired by a poppy shoe designed by Yves in the 70s and the Rive Gauche archives, explaining, The models were all wearing sailor berets, gold buttons on blazers, anchor [patterns] and stuff and sheer stockings and pumps and they were all made up! Theres no way they were going on a yacht. Its like they were going to lunch at the Four Seasons or to the office on Avenue George V. What amused me was the fun aspect. There was a lightness about it.”
And the collection is so fun! Even the gowns with all of their sophistication have a playful pattern and who doesn’t want to wear anchor prints? Pilati, however, was not always a fashion darling, his first collection for YSL in 2005 was met with way harsh reviews, even though the gothic elements he was showcasing were about to become the pervasive trend for seasons to come.
Pilati gives his take on all of those underminers, “I try to understand where the negative reviews are coming from. Im very surprised when criticism comes from a very shallow approach. We can discuss it if theres something you dont like and thats fair enough, but what I dont like is when they say, Oh, it didnt look great.’” He continues, “What didnt look great, from what sense? From a pattern point of view, from a fabric point of view, what?” I totally feel him on that, give a little constructive criticism people.
Of the critics of the blogging variety, the designer says,, “If people are thirsty about fashion, I like to have a dialogue, but now its not a two-way dialogue; its a one-way dialogue.” That can be fixed, Stefano, call me (and bring that black trench with you)!