Wool And The Gang: Meet The DIY Designers

Posted by , on January 31, 2012 at 10:16 pm
Designers Aurelie Popper and Jade Hardwood at Wool and the Gang's Downtown NYC studio 

Susie G: Tell me about each of your backgrounds and how you came about to work with Wool and the Gang.

Auriele Popper: So, I’m from Switzerland. Jade is from London. We went both to Central Saint Martins [...]

 

Susie G: Tell me about each of your backgrounds and how you came about to work with Wool and the Gang.

Auriele Popper: So, I’m from Switzerland. Jade is from London. We went both to Central Saint Martins in London. That’s where we met and then we went to do some internships together, and then we worked at Balmain together and that’s how we kind of see that we have the perfect dynamic, and then we started Wool and the Gang. We moved to New York, and we’ve been in New York for three years now. 

Jade Hardwood: ...We came to New York and that’s when we kind of started the basic and worked the creative side and the other half [of Wool and the Gang] is [based] in Switzerland.

SG: That’s awesome. How did you get into knitting? What was it about knitting? Did your Mom do it or...?  

JH: My Nana taught me when I was seven. I think kind of everyone has, not everyone, but most people have like a connection with their Mom or their Nan teaching them...But I remember knitting tiny little blankets for my teddies, my soft toys.  

AP: Same with my Grandma, but I quit, like most people. I got completely like, 'Okay, I’m never going to finish, it’s too long.' And then I restarted at university, at Central Saint Martins, and I just saw that knitting hasn’t been really approached as far as it could so I felt like I could really create something new with knitting and so I decided to go into knitwear fashion.

 

SG: Why don’t you tell me a little bit more about Wool and the Gang?   

AP: So Wool and the Gang is the first year-wide fashion brand. We have ready-to-wear pieces and we have knitting kits. [...]

 

SG: Why don’t you tell me a little bit more about Wool and the Gang?   

AP: So Wool and the Gang is the first year-wide fashion brand. We have ready-to-wear pieces and we have knitting kits. Everything that you see in the fashion line is available in a knitting kit. You have knitting kits for summer and you have knitting kits for winter. We have both. In the kit you have the pattern, the needle, the wool–everything you need to make it yourself. You also have some fun patches or ribbons to customize it. We really push customization to make your piece unique.

JH: All of our yarn is sourced from Peru. We visit there twice a year and then we do all of our design in Peru for two weeks every time we go. And we have three types of yarn. We have a hundred percent Pima cotton, a hundred percent baby Alpaca and then the big, chunky wool. And the big, chunky wool is the best yarn to knit with because it’s super fast–and that’s what we wanted to [use to] try to break down that image of like, 'Oh, you know, I’m knitting this too long.' We’re like 'no,' so we went and sourced this big, chunky yarn ‘cause we know it’s fast to knit with.

 

SG: Where have you found most of your customers and fans coming from?  

AP: It’s really international. We were based in Switzerland, and we launched in Colette in Paris the first time. So we really [...]

 

SG: Where have you found most of your customers and fans coming from?  

AP: It’s really international. We were based in Switzerland, and we launched in Colette in Paris the first time. So we really kind of get lots of French people, and then Germany and then London with Net-A-Porter, and then when we moved to New York, we had J.Crew and Madewell. We love small boutiques too because they just really care about our brand and you have to know, you have to understand Wool and the Gang I think to have it in your store. It’s not something you should sell to be on the rack. There’s the whole story behind it and a whole layer.

SG: Have you seen any fans of Wool and the Gang in Peru?  

AP: Yes, actually, they’re our biggest fans. When we arrived...they knew everything we’ve done, like all the projects. They follow us on the blog and are like 'Oh you did this!', and they’re so proud that we promote Peru as much as we do. And then we talk a lot about them and the knitters, and now actually they are the biggest fans.

 

SG: You said that once you’re in Peru, you get a lot more design creative. What specifically about Peru inspires you there?  

AP: I think it’s the textiles. We are really into textiles and colors [...]

 

SG: You said that once you’re in Peru, you get a lot more design creative. What specifically about Peru inspires you there?  

AP: I think it’s the textiles. We are really into textiles and colors and different materials. And Wool and the Gang has chosen like the three best quality of yarn that you can find really, so we’re always looking for...new quality or new colors. Also it’s good to be disconnected a little bit from, as I said, this kind of crazy New York life and, and really think about design.  

JH: Not only because, we not only work on design. Like as we said, we’re a small team, we have to kind of jump on everything from sales to—  

AP: –To production, to design. And probably can really fetter all the information that we have from New York, from Switzerland, from pictures, from everything we see, but kind of really analyze it, sit down and be, 'Okay, take a breath. What’s happening right now?'

 

SG: Makes sense, makes sense. Looking at a collection would you be able to pinpoint like what specifically was inspired by being Peru and what specifically was inspired by being in New York. Say maybe [...]

 

SG: Makes sense, makes sense. Looking at a collection would you be able to pinpoint like what specifically was inspired by being Peru and what specifically was inspired by being in New York. Say maybe the shape of the garment was inspired by Peru but the lines or a little graphic or the way it was knit–the pattern it was knit–was inspired by New York. Would you be able to pinpoint that and would you be able to give a few examples?

AP: Like I would say, for example, the pieces that were inspired by Peru, I would say it’s more in the texture. So you say like that the moss stitch, the whole stitch, the fringes, the detail really, and the finishing, and how we’re going to finish it so it looks, you know, like a handmade piece. And then I would say what comes from New York is really the shape, what you’re going to wear there. You know, you want to wear what you, as a citizen, girl–you know what you’re going to wear. But for example, like the finishing of the pom pom, that’s  a difference.  

JH: In Peru, the Peruvians have long, black hair that they plait and then they wear these kind of tassels that hang from their hair. So we asked them, 'Can you make that, what’s in your hair?'...We’re hoping to start a foundation down there because there’s all these women with all these amazing skills and it’s kind of like they’re an extension of our...community, a part of our gang down there. So as I said, we’re going to hopefully start a foundation, and give them work and build their community.

 

SG: Question–I'm pretty sure you guys get asked this a lot–Wool and the Gang; is it a reference to Kool and the Gang? 

JH: Absolutely.  

SG: Awesome. My follow-up is, what’s you’re favorite Kool [...]

 

SG: Question–I'm pretty sure you guys get asked this a lot–Wool and the Gang; is it a reference to Kool and the Gang? 

JH: Absolutely.  

SG: Awesome. My follow-up is, what’s you’re favorite Kool and the Gang song?  

JH: “Celebration.”  

AP: God, I don’t know. Don’t ask me. [Chuckles].

SG:  So tell me more about the themes you guys used in your recent designs and what was the inspiration behind your latest collections?  

AP: Every year there is a different theme but we always design for the Wool and the Gang girl...We created that girl together, and so there’s a main idea behind it. It all has to be basic pieces...wearable...knit, bold color, bold shape...you know, it’s a piece that you have to kind of finish up your style. You would dress really classic, for example, where you would have a chunky scarf and it would just make the perfect style really. This is the base of Wool and the Gang but then every year we have inspiration...it depends on the trends. This year’s inspiration is all about the arts, and the ski and the sports...The Wool and the Gang girl this year is super adventurous. She wants to learn new skills. She’s really sporty and so we kind of got inspired from that for this [spring] season.

 

SG: Before you showed me the summer collection–when people think about knits, you know winter wear, what are some of the best ways to incorporate knits in a spring and summer wardrobe?

AP: I think [...]

 

SG: Before you showed me the summer collection–when people think about knits, you know winter wear, what are some of the best ways to incorporate knits in a spring and summer wardrobe?

AP: I think that’s so that you can knit...on the beach. But you know you have a relaxing time in [the] summer...Yes, I suppose you actually have a more relaxing time in summer than you have in winter, so...  

JH: And also you can knit, so you would just knit. The knit pieces would be a lot more lacy, more lighter and that shows you can bring a knitted summer piece to your wardrobe, just by making it more, more like this one...[pulls sweater off the rack]  

SG: More perforated? 

AP: I’m telling you, you’ll start to see more summer knits everywhere. I think it’s really getting into people's heads. They do buy already-made. It’s more than the knitting kits, like you have to finish. But we have to say,'Sit, relax and knit,' you know?  

SG: That was going to be my next question. What’s more popular, the knits or the ready-to-wear?  

AP: I think in summer it’s more [of] the ready-to-wear, as you said because of the knitting and relation to winter. And the knitting kit in winter–it’s the perfect gift.

 

SG: What’s your favorite piece to knit?  

JH: I think I would say it’s the Snood Dog.  

AP: My favorite piece is maybe the Zion Lion because it’s super short. It’s just a big chunky hat that you [...]

 

SG: What’s your favorite piece to knit?  

JH: I think I would say it’s the Snood Dog.  

AP: My favorite piece is maybe the Zion Lion because it’s super short. It’s just a big chunky hat that you can knit in two hours because it’s so fast. 

JH: I would say this is one of the more iconic Wool and the Gang pieces.  

SG: Can’t go wrong with the snood.  

JH: No, just can’t go wrong!

 

SG: What’s the most peculiar thing you’ve seen ever created from a Wool and the Gang kit?  

JH: Weird thing...gosh...I think we did a knitting party at Barneys and just some, I don’t know, just [...]

 

SG: What’s the most peculiar thing you’ve seen ever created from a Wool and the Gang kit?  

JH: Weird thing...gosh...I think we did a knitting party at Barneys and just some, I don’t know, just some knitters were being, just some people’s taste in yarn...But I wouldn’t say anything crazy. They were just knitting with these seaweeds and it looked like she was making...they looked like seaweed...  

AP: People like knit with hair and knit with like crazy things. People come to the store and show us their knitting. They can be sometimes kind of shocking. I think we are the ones that are crazy, like the crazy knitter, knitting stuff out of the box. Like our giant candy canes for croquettes, or like big giant stars for our window. I think we, yeah, I think we are the crazy ones maybe.  

SG: Have you guys ever knit bombed anything? Like a car or a bike? Lamp post?  

AP: Yes, like we did a skateboard. That was fun. Surfboard–surfboard, yep.  

SG: What do you guys think about knit bombing, are you a fan of knit bombing?  

JH: I think it’s awesome.  

 

SG: How important is the whole DIY initiative that the brand has?  How important is it in the current, modern consumer space right now? 'Cause it seems like most consumers about ten, twenty years ago, [...]

 

SG: How important is the whole DIY initiative that the brand has?  How important is it in the current, modern consumer space right now? 'Cause it seems like most consumers about ten, twenty years ago, could still go to Walmart and get those mass-produced patterns to make clothes out of. Now you don’t see kids today doing that.

AP: ...I think it’s really important because people are going to spend time knitting a piece...they’re going to appreciate even more to wear it. They’re going to not want to maybe...buy a hat and throw it away the next day...they’re gonna knit it and wear it year after year and they’re going to really appreciate more what they buy, and how to spend their time. And also if they buy a finished piece they’re also [going to] appreciate more how it’s made–'Oh, this has been hand knitted. This has real value and is a basic piece that I’m going to want to wear for many years, and it’s not a fashion throwaway.'  

JH: Yeah, and I think what’s kind of unique to our brand is that I kind of admire brands that have like created cultures, and I think that’s almost what we’ve created...this creative culture around our brand, this community. I even read a couple of weeks ago in Newsweek, like knitting is proven to help you be smarter ‘cause you’re counting and you’re using your coordination at the same time. That’s why they say, it’s good for kids to knit at a young age because there’s a good counting, like kind of [an] exercise, so I think that knitting is such a healthy alternative to like–

AP: –Yoga.

 
Replay

With the spring season not to far upon us now, it’ll soon be time to change out the chunky knit sweaters hanging in your closet for lightweight tank-tops and breezy dresses.

But who says you still can’t rock knitwear when the temps start to go up?

To get some expert advice on how to sport some fun knits during the upcoming spring and summer seasons, StyleCaster headed on down to knit-know-it-alls Wool and the Gang to check out their own Spring/Summer collection, get some style tips and find out more about this DIY brand straight from the designers, at their SoHo studio in New York City.

If you aren’t familiar with Wool and the Gang, you probably have seen some of their knitting kits at a local boutique near you (or listed on your favorite online shop), or even seen some of their ready-made pieces worn by local fashionistas on the streets of New York or Paris.

We chatted up with designers Aurelie Popper and Jade Hardwood to learn more about the brand and their DIY iniativies, as well as to get the low down on the inspirations behind their latest collections.

Click through the slideshow above to read our interview and see photos from our visit to the Wool and the Gang studio!

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