Fashion Month seemed almost endless this season. Thankfully, it ended in Paris where there were highs and lows, ruffles and bows, lots to chew on and even more to spit out. My favorite collections were Chanel, Lanvin, and Hermès. Three distinct looks…all impeccable and “chic, chic, chic” (at the risk of sounding like Elsa Klensch). Jean Paul Gaultier, Albert Elbaz, and Karl Lagerfeld ran neck and neck, so we have a trifecta; they all win.
Yes, I know, all the editors loved Louis Vuitton, but I say fotz. That shizz screams Emperor’s New Clothes plenty. Since Marc Jacobs is so big in Japan, there is a touch of Harajuku sprinkled into each look. If you remember correctly, all the LV ensembles worn by the likes of Madonna, Lake Bell (zzz), and Leighton Meester last season ended up on my “Not Best Dressed List.”
John Galliano was wonderful as was Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga. Alexander McQueen was fierce, too, though no one can wear those shoes in the real world. I really liked Miu Miu, but I take issue with designers showing in more than one city. It annoyed me about Alberta Ferretti showing in NYC, and Vivienne Westwood should stay in London, where she is the toast of the town…and a Lady no less.
With everything stripped away, one bad outfit tarnishes the collection…as in the case of YSL or Sonia Rykiel. Another case in point: the Emanuel Ungaro show, a.k.a Lindsay Lohan’s foray into fashion. It was like the editors were primed to hate this; it wasn’t THAT horrible. OK…it wasn’t brilliant…perhaps slim pickins, but the venom that spewed about this show was unprecedented. Where were these horrified editors at the A.F. Vandevorst collection or Bless (as in bless this mess), a presentation that was Cirque du Soleil meets schamtehs. And when I read good reviews for Bernhard Willhelm‘s messy nonsense or kind words for Vivienne Westwood‘s hodgepodge lodge, Rick Owens‘ emperors-new-clothes, Vanessa Bruno‘s lace-knee granny things, and don’t get me started on Zucca because “refreshing” and “the right dose of cheer” is the last thing I would say about this collection. See? I’m exhausted. As must be Anna Piaggi…who must be napping as we speak.
Love the jackets and vests at Chanel.
Alexander McQueen was his usual very interesting except those shoes slash hoofs are just another version of shoes from Fall ’10 that makes me glad that I am a guy. Oh, and nice hairdo.
Here’s an example of fashion faux pas at Sonia Rykiel…that which should be avoided at all costs.
Stella McCartney’s collection was very wearable…almost too much, in this case.
Anyhoo, you decide what you loved, liked or hated and please let me know.
Xoxo
ABE
To read more from Abe Gurko about his Fashion Week commentary, head to his site imeanwhat.com.
