The Curly Girl’s Guide To Haircuts

Janell M. Hickman
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Anyone with curls, coils, or kinks can attest to the challenge of finding the right stylist to manage their hair texture. Thankfully, ladies are migrating away from straight strands and embracing their natural texture. However, how can you find the perfect person to make your curls pop? Our experts set the record straight on the ins and outs of cutting curly hair—and common styling pitfalls. Read on to finally eliminate your fear of the scissors once and for all!

Know Thy Curl Texture
“The texture of your hair absolutely influences your cut,” explains Gabrielle Corney,  hairstylist & beauty expert at Carol’s Daughter Mirror Salon. “Finer hair will fall differently than hair that is thicker or denser.  For instance, depending on the cut, you may see some of the scalp if you have very fine hair so you’ll want to be careful.  Always seek the advice of an experienced professional.”

Don’t Shy Away from Short Lengths
“There is no limitation on how short you can go with curly or textured hair,” explains Christo, Global Artistic Director of Curlisto Systems and Christo Fifth Avenue. “As long as you have the idea of the style you would like to create and the knowledge of how to design the shape, you’ll be in good shape. As a curly hair specialist, we are not only working with long curls, but plenty of short styled hair too. It has actually been the latest trend this season!”

MORE: Air-plopping—The New Way To Dry Curls

Avoid Razoring Curls
“At our salon we don’t use razors because when you razor the ends of a curl it tends to lose its shape,” explains Caleb Ellis, Technical Training Manager for DevaCurl. “Additionally, the ends appear frizzy, frayed and sparse. It also can weaken the strength of the ends of the curl.”

She Bangs (Sort Of)
“Can curly girls wear bangs? Yes and no,” explains Corney. “I’d suggest going for a longer, side swoop bang option, as opposed to a straight bang. The main reason being you will experience shrinkage when your hair is straight.”

Make This Your Curly Cut Manifesto
“10 years ago, I developed the Curlisto diametrix cutting technique that has been successful for many hair stylists around the globe,” explains Christo who works with Debra Messing. “It is best and most efficient to work and cut on wet hair. After shampooing and conditioning, section the hair into 12 evenly twirled sections from the pivot point, which is designated at the crown of the head, with a cutting start point at 3/4 away from the root. Then, the hair will give you the leverage and texture it needs to reduce bulkiness and avoid the pyramid-like shape that is often synonymous with curly hair. You may also apply Curlisto’s Structura Lotion PLUS for a more reassuring elimination of bulkiness.”

Don’t Blowdry Pre-Cut
“You need to see the hair in its natural state to see how it will lay curly,” shares Ellis. “If you cut the hair while it’s straight, the cut will appear to be even, but once it curls, the curls won’t be even and you’ll be left with a different shape.”

Yes, Curly Hair Needs to Trimmed
“If you stretch out time between trims you end up needing an actual cut,” explains Corney. “Someone with chemically-treated hair will notice split ends quicker than someone with textured hair, who may opt for more blow outs. Every client is absolutely unique but you may need a trim as soon as 4-5 weeks.”

Learn The Three Steps to Successful Styling
Christo shares his key secrets below, plus a how-to video here.

  1.  “Healthy hair is the most important step in successful styling. Therefore, using a deep conditioning treatment such as Curlisto Deep Therapy Masque on a weekly basis will not only keep your hair strong and resilient, it will make any style look its best.”
  2. “Choose the right haircut for your face frame.”
  3. “Choose the right combination of styling and finishing products according to your curls and texture. Plus, have a professional counsel you on how to use them the correct way.”

MORE: 10 Curly Hair Products Under $10

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