Riccardo Tisci brought a Gothic touch to the Givenchy Spring 2010 show in Paris. The days of Audrey Hepburns ladylike reserve and Jackie Kennedys sophisticated simplicity are long gone. Since the retirement of Hubert de Givenchy in 1995, the label has been helmed by several big name designers — from John Galliano to Alexander McQueen, as well as Julien McDonald. With the appointment of Tisci in 2005, critics and designers alike have been stunned by his often dark and brooding vision.
Tisci himself admitted his own hesitations about sharing his perspective with the masses.
“I was scared of couture at the beginning and reacted by staying away from looking at the past at all,” Tisci admitted to Style.com. “But now I’m more confident. I started looking into the archive, and found the idea of this strong, erotic phase of Parisian women I related to.”
Looks 1 & 2:
Left: The Queen of Darkness reigns supreme in this look. This lacy black jumpsuit was anything but demure with multiple cut-outs and adornments. Paired with a lace hat, this look is a striking reflection of Tiscis ability to keep the highly conceptual as something palatable for the editorial pages.
Right: Rhinestones collide with volume in this gown. The bottom gradients of purple give this look an unconventional twist.
Looks 3 & 4:
Left: Partnered with a wide hat, this snow white dress captured Tiscis tendency to utilize fabric as a way to deconstruct and contort an outfits modernity.
Right: Utilitarian meets excess with a peach colored fencing jacket and matching cuffed shorts. The ruffles on the sleeves and around the bottom sides of the jacket once again illustrate Tiscis aversion to the predictable and stale.
Looks 5 & 6:
Left: ABBA backup dancer? Or Ziggy Stardust impersonator? Tisci pairs a blue sequined jumpsuit with a cropped jacket. The designer focused on detail rather than experimentation with fabrics.
Right: Rising star Lara Stone sported belted black shorts, black thigh-high boots, and an ostrich feather vest. Complete with a sheer bow, this vest transforms the otherwise ordinary into the extraordinary.
Looks 7 & 8:
Left: A noted departure from the dramatic, the ruffles encircling the neckline and outline of the dress add a soft and feminine touch.
Right: In this look, the ruffled white blouse is a romantic contrast to the feathery black shorts.
Looks 9 & 10:
Left: This blue high-waisted skirt and matching top seem to reference traces of Madonna circa the 1980s. However, Tisci avoids turning the outfit into either a homage or caricature by adding a flowing, floor-length cape.
Right: In this look, Tisci experiments with fabric, texture, and fit. Decorated with black and white feathers, the blouse is an eye-catching offset to the loose minimalistic trousers. The wide-lapelled fitted jacket and black sequined gloves are a reconstruction of high-class sophistication.
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