I would imagine that filling in for your boss who’s a master couturier might feel like any run of the mill resident taking over for a brain surgeon. Maybe that guy learned everything he might need to know in theory, but without the experience and the innate talent, things could go horribly awry.
So, no, fashion isn’t brain surgery, but a genius is a genius and haute couture is not for the prosaic designer. Dior resort looked good, if not a bit unfocused, but this, as WWD said, “This was not about an in-house designer or designing partners attempting can-do reinvention. Rather, it telegraphed interim status, and in haute couture, interim doesnt work.”
Bill Gaytten, who was recently appointed head designer for Christian Dior, is a great tailor, Cathy Horyn notes for the Times, but “he is not a designer,” she continues. Such simple words, but that’s got to hurt especially after clicking over to Style.com to see the collection referred to as a “misjudged effort.”
The truth is, even on girls like Karlie Kloss and Jourdan Dunn, the first couture collection for Dior without Galliano since 1996 came off as a pale impersonation of what was one of the most consistent aesthetics in fashion. That drama can’t be faked, even if it is artfully tailored as is evident on many of the pieces, and sending in that sad clown doesn’t help.