While Ruffian is known for having some of the best nails backstage at New York Fashion Week, they’re also notorious for major makeup. MAC Cosmetics Lead Makeup Artist James Kaliardos created the look for the show, which was inspired by luxurious, beautiful girls from the late ’70s/early ’80s with lots of money that live on the Upper East Side. Chic.
The rounded eye is much more doughy and sleepy with no “feline paws” (AKA cat lines), but still incredibly looked after and finessed. To create the same effect, apply MAC Cosmetics Dusk CCB to the lid and crease, then blend Brun Shadow into the crease and underneath the eye. Stony Eyeshadow was dabbed just on top, while Electric Cool Pure Flash was concentrated on the inner corners. Add Evil Twin Technakohl Liner on the top lash line for definition, then curl lashes and finish with Haute & Naughty Mascara.
To complement the strong eye, there was an equally bold lip, which was achieved by defining and filling in the pout with MAC Burgundy Lip Pencil, followed by Crushed Cranberry Lip Color (from the AW14 Lip Palette). The trick to doing both a bold eye and lip, is to have really good skin underneath and to make sure the liner on the eye isn’t too sculpted—go for smudgy rather than graphic.
Now, back to the nails. “Lunar eclipse moon manis” were prevalent on all the ladies, but instead of just one gorgeous hue painted across the models’ tips, three shades were incorporated into the design—Ambrosia (a light lilac), Relic (silver), and Rosary (copper) —plus, three different moon sizes based on its different rotations. So … next level nails pretty much.
Ruffian designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais said of the concept: “We’re so excited about our new trio color set launching with Birchbox! We looked at old flemish paintings for inspiration and the colors they used, like rose gold and silver. We waned to translate them into the collection, so we worked with our lab and developed easy-to-use metallic shades and created a dark moon in a night sky on the nail.”