Of all the regrettable beauty blunders you’re bound to make in your lifetime, jacking up your eyebrows is among the worst. Your hair will grow back following an unfortunate color experiment, and that dark-lipliner-with-clear-gloss phase can be a secret among you and friends. The impact of over-grooming your brows, however, can last for quite some time. Dermatologists and brow specialists have taken note of this, with many recommending eyebrow growth serum as a solution.
“The most common causes of brow thinning are normal aging and over-plucking” says Dr. Hadley King, a dermatologist at Manhattan’s SKINNEY MedaSpa. “Over-plucking can cause permanent damage to the hair follicles, over time resulting in thinning.”
After years of working with clients who were struggling to get fuller brows—many of whom had plucked their brows to smithereens in following the prevailing ’90s trend—New York City-based brow specialist Joey Healy launched a Brow Renovation Serum ($125, joeyhealy.com) in 2011. The key ingredients, also found in similar products including the Fusion Stimulash Grooming + Enhancing Brow Duo ($40, fusionbeauty.com) and Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Enhancing Serum ($38, sephora.com), are peptides.
“Peptides are what really tend to work,” Healy says. “They create proteins which are the building blocks of hair.” Healy adds that because eyebrows constantly grow, rest, and shed, peptide-rich serums are able to produce results by routinely influencing brows during the growth stages.
After two weeks of continuos use, many achieve slightly more brow density, with noticeable results occurring after six week. Most serums should be applied nightly on clean, dry, makeup-free brows.
While both Dr. King and Healy have had patient and client success stories, respectively, they agree serums not always the answer to sparse brows. King points out if you think something such dermatitis or eczema is the culprit, you should talk to your dermatologist before making a serum investment. And Healy advises letting the brows grow naturally first before turning to a serum.
“If someone comes in and they had a bad brow wax two weeks ago and they’re just in the beginning stages of repair, I don’t necessarily suggest [a serum] for them,” Healy says. “They’re best for someone who feels like they’ve plateaued with their growth; if they’ve overworked their brows, left them untouched for six weeks, and still aren’t getting the results that they want.”
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