Before: Lisa hated her hair color.
When I asked her during her consultation what she liked about it she said “Nothing!” I said what do you dislike about it–she said “Everything!” I asked her how she would want her friends to describe her, blonde, brunette, redhead–she said “I don’t care as long as I feel pretty.” I asked how often she wanted to be in the salon and she said every 6 to 8 weeks. She also brought in a photo of herself from about ten years ago as a blonde. She told me she always felt the prettiest as a blonde and has tried to do so many shades over the last ten years and just hasn’t been happy. Although the color she had was not a bad color – meaning it was done well-I thought it sucked all the color out of her skin, aged her and exaggerated the pink tones in her complexion. I knew that if she were going to be a blond we would have to go for something neutral to sandy (not a lot of gold) to minimize the pink in her skin and that would take a lot of time, a lot of money and she would have to be in the salon every 3-4 weeks to have her color done. It may also really compromise the integrity of her hair. I also knew that a coppery strawberry blond would minimize the pink in her skin and make her blue eyes sparkle. After weighing both options and having some serious dialogue, we decided to go for the coppery strawberry blond.
What I did:
I used Platinum with 20 volume and did a full head of highlights in a herringbone pattern starting in the nape working my way to the crown. When I moved to the sides, I did diagonal placements following the shape of the hairline. Through the top I did a herringbone pattern following the shape of her front hairline until it met at the crown in the back. My weave varied throughout the entire application, I wanted to see bold pieces mixed in with medium pieces and I also wanted some very fine weaves and slices to diffuse into the previous base color to make it appear lighter. I processed the highlights under the rollerball until they were pale yellow, between a level 8 and 9. When we went back to the shampoo bowl, I wet her hair, mixed a color cleanse with 20volume and applied it from scalp to ends. I let this process until the base softened slightly, the darkness was off the ends and I got about 1 level of lift. After shampooing and towel drying, I mixed a gloss of Hi-Richesse, 1/3 7.43 and 2/3 8.3 with 15volume. I applied it from scalp to ends and let it process, while watching it, until it was pretty–about 20 minutes. I shampooed, conditioned and dried her hair. I also used Majarel 8.3 with 30 volume on her eyebrows for three minutes to have them blend with her new color.
Lisa was thrilled with the results. She felt like she had a dramatic change that wasn’t too drastic. She felt like her new hair color was special and that it looked expensive and natural. She also commented on how pretty her eyes looked and how she doesn’t think she will need to wear as much makeup because her skin wasn’t so washed out looking.
What I learned:
1. This was a great example of how in three easy steps –highlights, color cleanse and gloss–I could really make a huge change for someone without breaking the bank or taking a full day to do
2. I really used my communication skills to figure out how I could meet her expectations. The consultation started off really frustrating because she kept telling me to do what I want because I am the expert. I figured out a way to take what she was saying and bring her to a place where she loved her hair
3. I also learned that being patient and taking my time during the consultation will help me to be thorough enough and get clear enough to make choices that will make my work smooth and fun
What I would do differently:
1. I would have made the gloss a little deeper in the back and a left it as is on the top to add a little more dimension
2. I would have added a frame highlight to give it even a little more sparkle and brightness through the front.
3. She was so eager to purchase the shampoos and conditioners I recommended, I should have sold her Ted Gibson Hair Sheets, too!!!
Any product I mention in HUEman Behavior is one that I’ve tested out myself and is in accordance with Daily Makeover’s Editorial Ethics Pledge.