Determining what colors are best for your skin tone is a question that often comes up with the ever-changing color trends and new beauty product releases. I stopped by the Three Custom Color studios to learn how to not only choose the right colors for my skin tone, but also how to try to take that knowledge and work it in to today’s trends.
Co-founder Chad Hayduk explained that “75% of the global market is warm complected, meaning they have a golden tone in their skin, while the other 25% is cool complected, meaning they have more of a peachy or rosy tone to their skin.” Hayduk showed me some quick tricks to figure out first my skin tone, and then which trendy product (I was looking for a great red lipstick) could be mixed for me. Learn how to figure out your skin tone in the slideshow above, and just how custom blending works.
All photos courtesy of Joey D’Arco for Beauty High
Clients are walked through the studio for a consultation upon arrival at Three Custom Color.
One of the most popular products for custom creation, lip colors.
You have the option to have single products created, or entire palettes.
This is the blending box full of colors to create each product - I'm in awe.
Hayduk swipes a gold and silver swatch across my arm to determine if I am warm or cool - silver instantly melts into my skin, so we know that I'm cool (and extremely pale - eek!!). Hayduk on the other hand is warm, since the gold melts into his skin.
Glancing at the warm and cool shadows, I can tell that I've always been drawn to the cooler side of things anyway - hello deep plum!
I then became curious about how I could attempt an ombre lip (darker color on the outside, lighter in the center), and Hayduk recommended using a lighter, reflective color as the second choice. "Take a pinker base, and throw an opalescent over it to give more dimension," he said.
Now on to the eyes (of course). With green eyes, the best bet for me (and everyone) is to go opposite the color wheel, so I should use lilac tones.
Since red is such a bold lip color, and can be extremely hard to choose, I decided to have a custom red created. Hayduk first mixed a cool red pigment with a moisturizing beeswax to sheer it out and dilute it.
He then added a champagne shimmer by combining both gold and silver pigments to the red, since I am cool complected but have blonde hair (and was wearing a ton of gold jewelry at the time - very conflicted!).
This resulted in a softer, "a little bit more user friendly, but still relatively bright, red" said Hayduk.
He also added a bit of white and brown pigment to make a beige - neutralizing the brightness.
This turned the super bright red into something softer and more wearable.
Brushing on the final test batch with a lip brush I was able to feel just how soft and moisturizing it was, almost like a gloss.
Hayduk then wrote down the exact ingredients needed for the batch.
He mixed up a larger amount, poured it into a beaker, and liquified it.
Acting quickly, he poured the contents into a lipstick mold.
After about 10 minutes in the freezer, my lipsticks were ready!
Hayduk set them into their cases...
And my custom colors were created!