NYFW SS 2012: Binetti Brings Masquerade Theatricality

Julia DiNardo

Yes, this is for real. It would have been hard to top the hair, nails, and makeup looks at last season’s Binetti show, but somehow, beauty miracles do occur. Let the anticipation build as we work our way through this culmination of masqueraded fabulousness.

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Even though each model was treated a little differently, Rodney Cutler for Cutler and Redken thought of Italian Vogue’s highly editorial shoots with a dressed down appeal for the hair. Starting with Redken’s Fashion Work 12 Spray, he blow dried and sprayed each section with Redken Quick Dry 18 Finishing Spray. As for the style, each model was treated differently, Cutler told us, but essentially the style involves pulling the hair back once crimped, criss crossing into a high, loose French twist, letting some pieces from the front overlap, fold and wrap each other until it feels right. He then let some strands poke out in the back and around the sides to give it at slightly undone approach.

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James Vincent of Make Up For Ever spoke thoroughly with designer Diego Binetti to incorporate the bright hues, silks, and fabrics into the makeup, and wanted masks that “didn’t look too much like Marilyn Manson or Halloween.” The end result was more taken from David Bailey photographs and Veruschka, again with each model sporting a different look of 3D proportions. There were stencils, feathers, whiskers, butterflies, fringe, pearl strands, and all sorts of applique items floating about backstage, and the main makeup for the painted looks was Make Up For Ever’s Aqua Creams, highly pigmented creams that are long-lasting and smudge-proof. Diamond Powder, which is a mix between pearl luminescence and glitter was also applied to add dimension. Prozaid and Spirit Gum, a liquid adhesive, was used to get the various items to stay on the face.

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The nail story for this season at Binetti is a beautiful one: artist by day, this woman is getting ready for a masquerade ball in the evening, and carries with her on her nails traces of her profession; just some paint around the edges of her nails. The “Harlequin Hardware” manicure as geniusly dubbed by CND was executed by Candice Manacchio, and includes the CND Colours of Raspberry Parfait and Frosting Cream, capped in gold and silver metal that was literally molded to the tips.The pedis are “meticulously groomed,” counters Manacchio, that sport one of the colors, Raspberry Parfait and finished with CND’s AirDry Top Coat.

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Tips to creating the nails at home start with nude false nails, a layer of Frosting Cream, then using a thin gel brush dipped in a bit of acetone and apply the Raspberry Parfait around the paremeters for an acid-washed effect. Instead of snapping on metal pieces, use CND’s Gold Chrome or Silver Chrome polishes on the edges.

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