What Happens During Brow Restoration, Really?

Janell M. Hickman


We are willing to wager that “growing out my brows” is at the top of many of your 2015 beauty resolution lists. Whether you went crazy with over-plucking or simply have sparse arches, sadly powders and pencils can only help so much. Outdated procedures like permanent makeup have swiftly been replaced with alternative restoration services lauded for natural, realistic results. But how can you find the right procedure for you? We consulted the experts to give us the low down on getting fuller, thicker brows that might give Brooke Shields a run for her money.

Define Your Procedure
“At Browhaus, our signature Brow Resurrection treatment is a semi-permanent eyebrow enhancement treatment that offers realistic and long-lasting results that mimic the 3D appearance of hair strands,” shares Michelle Wu, Browhaus Senior Therapist. “Simply put, it’s like giving life to sparse or over-tweezed brows.” Jeffrey Epstein, MD, FACS,  with offices in both New York City and Miami, is known for his permanent hair restoration practices. “The restoring of eyebrow hairs [can be defined as decreasing] areas of thinness or absence by using the patient’s own hairs—most commonly using scalp hairs.”

MORE: Growing Out Your Brows 101

Other Factors Contribute to Thin Arches
“There are a variety of reasons why brows can look sparse, ranging from genetics to aging,” says Wu. “It is recommended that you check with a professional brow therapist on the best brow shape for your face.” Beauty expert and blogger Lianne Farbes who underwent the Brow Resurrection procedure at Browhaus shares, “I’d always had very, very sparse brows. I always used pencil, waxes, and pomades to achieve darker, bolder brows. I loved the results and would do it again.”

Know Your Commitment Level
Farbes always wanted lush brows, so she took the plunge for permanent results in 2014. “My friend’s brows looked so natural— not grey or green like most tattoos I had seen before—I had to do it!” Semi-permanent treatments like Browhaus’ Brow Resurrection provide a helpful solution by offering natural-looking results that last up to 2 years, while Dr. Epstein’s office promises permanent results. “The results of the procedure are not necessarily ‘perfect’—even mother nature doesn’t do things right all the time. [However] it can been seen as a moderate to significant improvement for thin, lackluster brows.”

Find The Right Shape
“[For brow hair restoration] you need to go to someone who understands the relationship between brow shape, orbital wall volume, hairline position, and the shape of the face,” cautions Dr. Epstein. Wu breaks down further explaining, “As a rule of thumb, oval faces are the most versatile and are able to take on a variety of brow shapes, slim brows with sharp angles and high arches are best for round faces as they help elongate round faces and balance soft features. Thick, natural-looking brows will help soften the harsh angles and balance the strong jawline of square faces, while heart-shaped faces can be balanced out with fuller, curved brows with short tails and a low to medium arch.”

Decide Between Semi-Permanent…
“All Brow Resurrection treatments start with a full consultation, where our brow specialist will explain in detail what the process entails,” says Wu. “Next, the best brow shape for your face will be drawn on. Once you are satisfied with the shape and thickness, the therapist will recommend and customize the most suitable shade for your new brows to match your hair and skin tone.” The process starts with the numbing of the brow area with top-grade numbing cream and strand like designs which mimics real hair will be scratched lightly into the surface of the skin with a specially-designed tool, after which pure vegetable dye is applied onto the brow area. Clients can anticipate the procedure lasting between 1.5 to 2 hours.

MORE: Expert Tricks For the Bold Eyebrows Of Your Dreams

Or, Permanent Solutions…
“After designing the brows with patient input, the donor’s hairs are obtained after using a local anesthesia and oral sedative to reduce discomfort,” explains Dr. Epstein. “These hairs are obtained either by the FUE approach [removed one strand by stand] or by the strip technique where a small piece of scalp is removed then sutured closed.”  Next, each hair is dissected and separated into “perfect 1” and “perfect 2” grafts under microscope. “The surgeon makes each recipient site [typically 0.5 and 0.6mm each] in the eyebrows that determines the pattern, direction, and angle of growth.  Finally, the hairs are then placed into these recipients sites one at a time,” he adds.

Avoid “Traditional” Permanent Brow Tattoos
“Permanent brow tattoos tend to change color over a prolonged period of time (from black to a bluish or greenish shade) because of the pigments used,” explains Wu. “Brow tattoos are also unable to provide natural-looking results and usually appear as a dark, crayoned finish.” Dr. Epstein agrees sharing, “[for some] brow tattoos can be a worthwhile approach, however they don’t look really natural but can provide some coverage.” Wu adds, “The only way to remove a brow tattoo is via laser—which is a painful process that can damage your skin.”

MORE: 10 Things No One Ever Tells You About Filling In Your Brows

Be Patient With Your Results
“[During Brow Resurrections] there will be some scabbing of the treated area over the next two weeks or so,” explains Wu. “But regular application of Browhaus’ specially formulated aftercare products (Build & Fix) will promote speedy healing.” Dr. Epstein explains for hair restoration, clients will see full results in roughly four months. One thing to note? Your brows will need to be “trimmed” just like the hair on your head every one to two weeks for best results. Farbes gushes that she was thrilled with her results and would undergo Brow Resurrection again.

Maintain Your New Arches
“Threading or tweezing is recommended to tidy up the stray hairs outside of your newly-restored brows,” explains Wu. “Threading is a traditional method that removes hair strands in a row for  natural, yet not overly defined arches while tweezing is very precise and removes unwanted hair by the individual strand.”  She recommends avoiding waxing altogether, “Waxing can cause ingrown hairs when the hair strands are broken and not removed from the root.”

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